The Key to learning obedience and dog behavior is first, to READ, then second, to attend obedience classes, and last, to watch your animals closely. Often I give advice based off my labs, and other dogs I have trained.  That is because I do my best to LEARN from my dogs!

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Table of Contents

1. House Training
2. Selecting a Puppy
3. Kennel Training
4. Alpha Dog/Aggression Problems
5. How Much Praise do I Give?
6. The Food Thief
7. My Puppy won't come when I call.
8. My 1 Year old dog won't come when outside
9. Fighting dogs in househould
10. Puppy Crazies/butt tucking/running rampant through the house!
11. The Runaway Puppy - It's MINE!
12. My puppy won't quit biting!
13. When will my dog come into heat?
14. Ten Rules to Heeling (How to walk my dog on a leash)
15. New baby coming soon.  What to do.
16. My Dog gets overexuberant when we see another dog.
17. My dog shows aggression to other dogs when we walk.
18. My Dog is Dog Aggressive.
19. I'm Military, Should I get rid of my dog?
20. What kind of collar should I use (That Prong Collar looks like a torture device)

For a time, this webmaster recommended a board called DOG PROBLEMS.  I now no longer do.  The Trainer recommends methods I cannot condone, and also has set rules on his board that are unacceptable to me.  I gave him a free link, but he would not allow me to link back to my site from his board.  Thus, I cannot support his board any longer. 

How much praise is enough?

How much praise is enough? Am I giving enough, too much, or just the right amount?

The amount of praise depends entirely on the dog you are training, and your personality. Some dogs are thoroughly embarrassed if effused over with praise. Others don't respond until YOU have been thoroughly embarrassed. You need to find how much works for you. The recall is a good example. If you call your dog, and praise quietly, and the dog seems quite happy to do the excercise perfectly the next time, chances are you now know exactly what your dog wants. If, however, you call your dog when teaching the recall, and they just look at you like "ho hum" until you make a big deal with praise, then you must now realize your dog needs more praise than "the average bear".

Breeds are not necessarily specific on who likes what amount of praise, but on the other hand, I don't know too many Bassets that care if you get excited or not. However, I DO know ONE Basset who LOVED excited praise. You need to know your dog.

My recommendation: Take two days and totally go crazy over everything your dog does! Give HUGE amounts of praise over everything! If after those two days you notice a major change in his obedience abilities, you know that your dog LOVES this amount of praise. If, after those two days, your dog seems to be throughly embarressed, then the chances are, your dog needs less praise. It's rare you will be able to tell by their expressions while giving the praise.

Many trainers thing there are times when people are giving TOO Much praise.  And this IS possible with some dogs.  This can specifically be the case when the dogs are obviously dominant.  In this case, the dog must earn every OUNCE of praise.  It all depends on the dog.  Just as people prefer different types of recognition, so do dogs.

Case in Point: I always gave my older Lab, Beauty very simple praise. There was alot of it, but it was calm and collected. Things like "good girl", "what a good baby" were commonly heard coming from me. I would pet her on the head, and that was it. One day, she placed 4th in an obedienc competition, which was amazing to me! It was our FIRST show, and I was SO excited! When we were announced as 4th, I gave her huge amounts of praise! The excitement literally continued for an hour, where I gave her a favorite treat on the way home (a hamburger from Mickey D's). For the next 3 weeks, Beauty's obedience was the sharpest I had ever seen! She was in perfect heel position continually, Her sits were sharp and quick. I had finally found the PERFECT amount of praise for Beauty! Now, if only I could keep it up. *laughing* Интернет рассылка спам на сайте www.m-line.net.ua

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The Food Thief

Owning a lab and finding other lab owners, one of the most common complaints is "How do I stop the food thief"? Such stories as kitchen surfing, or cleaning out all things edible, are some of the most common stories.

The problem with food thiefs is there is NO specific cure that I am aware of. I've heard such things as "Planting mouse traps", and other "popping things" (Ever seen those envelopes of "snake eggs" that manage to scare the daylights out of you when you open them?). My experience is that the true food thief is capable of handling anything and everything you throw at him! The hunt for the food is the most important thing in the world. The interesting thing, is usually the cabinet surfer or cabinet thief is rarely the average food hog, but the dog who loves people food above all things.

Some possible steps to take to prevent the cabinet surfer from being successful.

#1. Purchase a home with doors to the kitchen. This has been MY sure fire cure! that is,, until one of them figured out how to open the door.

#2. Keep all food above the dog's reach. Keep only pots/pans down at doggie level. Canned goods are USUALLY safe in the lower levels, depending on the dog. Food on the kitchen cabinets is only an invitation to attack at the least expected time. Buy such things as bread boxes for the bread, in order to make such "attacks" more difficult.

#3. If your food hog has learned to open the fridge, here are a few hints:

A. NEVER put a towel on the handle of the fridge. It makes it easier to open by grasping it with strong teeth, and pulling.

B. Put a latch ABOVE the dog's average reach that makes it impossible to open while standing on all fours.

#4. NEVER forget and leave food out then leave the kitchen, unless you put your dog on a down stay, and you know the dog is reliable. (here's where your obedience training comes in, and only for short term deaprtures).

If you have any suggestions on methods to save your food, lease, send them to teresa@maro.net

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Coming When Called

One of the most difficult things to do for some people is to teach their dog to come when called. This is really perfectly normal, but if not corrected early, can cause problems. I recommend using the article by Carol Lea Benjamin Training Puppies & Dogs to Come when Called".  It's an excellent article.  I've used this new method with my new pup, and it works GREAT!

But as you read this article, there are a few things you must remember: 

1. NEVER call your dog when you are angry, or need to CORRECT misbehavior.
2. NEVER call your dog when you are going to do something they don't like, like a bath, nail clipping, or whatever.
3. NEVER call your dog if you cannot enforce the COME.

I've decided I can't add ANYTHING better than Ms. Benjamin's article on teaching puppies to come.  My Little BlackJack was taught using this method, and at five months is the best dog for the recall I have ever seen in my life.  HE LOVES it!  And guess what folks?  NO FOOD!  We taught just by playing games.

Just remember one thing about this exercise:  If you haven't made a fool of yourself yet, you aren't trying hard enough. :)  So go read Ms. Benjamin's article, and start having FUN!

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My One year old dog won't come when called.

Your dog is not coming when she's called for a few reasons:

#1. she's learned it's POSSIBLE to not come when called, and boy, there are so many OTHER more interesting things to do out there.

#2. She's learned that you are boring. You don't make it the most fun thing in the whole wide world for her to come to you, so those squirrels, and other things are much more fun.

#3. She knows you can't MAKE her come.... it's a learned trait.

So, how do you fix this? You go back to Step #1, in basic obedience. For every "learned" behavior a dog has, it takes TWICE that time to unlearn it! While there are exceptions to every rule, it's best for you to understand that full 100% progress on this may not be possible until she is age 3, so don't give up! Keep working, and abvoe all, BE CONSISTENT.

First, get yourself a "long line". I recommend folks use those retractable leads,, they are so much easier to "reel in" when the time comes.

Begin in your home. Put the long line on the dog. have a nice, chewable treat available, ready to give (crunchy treats take too long to eat,,, not good for training purposes. Use hot dogs or something similar, cut up into small pieces.

Put your dog on a sit, stay, then walk to the other end of the room. Call your dog (if you want, you can start with a BRAND NEW command so as to limit the "untraining" time.) A new command like 'FRONT' will work. If the dog hesitates, give a little tug on the lead. She will probably start to move forward, and if a typical lab, will see the treat, and come flying in. As she comes in, stoop down so you are at her level. Move your arm so the treat comes closer into your body, so her nose has to nearly be touching you to get it. (I even lean back, so she is literally right up on me). Say "good girl", then give her the treat. Do this until she is reliable on the recall inside. Refer to My Puppy won't come when I call for more detailed information. Then go outside, and start all over out there. The recall shoudln't take quite as long to teach this time, because she will know the basics. But just because your dog comes INSIDE, does not mean they know it's what they are supposed to do outside.

If you use the "NEW" command theory, it may take up to 6 weeks to have a reliable recall. It Is possible it will take longer, so whatever you do, don't give up. :)) Bingo sites reviews UK Online bingo bingo sites 455 Free New bingo.

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My dogs suddenly won't quit fighting!

Often, in multiple dog households, all runs smoothly, until one certain day.  The owner doesn't really SEE what the problem is, but suddenly their dogs can't be in the same ROOM with one another without fighting.  It always seems as if the same dog is starting the fights, but usually, it's not the case.  Often, one dog is just a bit more subtle at instigating the fighting than the other. 

The problem is your dogs don't know who's boss... they would each like to be boss, so they are challenging each other. Problem is YOU should be boss. Let me tell you a story:

When we got our first lab, we also got 2 other mixed breeds about the same age, but much smaller. The mixes fought all the time, but they were simple spats, where noone got hurt, and always outside. I had always been taught to ignore such things, so didn't do anything about it. Neither did Beauty. She always watched very carefully from a distance, alerted, but never stepping in.

One day the two got into their spat INSIDE the house. Before I or my husband could move, Beauty jumped up from her spot on the floor, shoved herself between them, and snarled,,,, you knew she was saying "Go for it! Just you try it!". She broke up the fight in less than 2 seconds, without snapping, or hurting anyone.

A few years later, with one mix adopted out (she was a rescue) and the other passed on (another long story), we got our second lab. She is almost exactly 2 years younger than Beauty.

When Lisa reached the age of 18 mos to 2 years, she decided she wished to be alpha. She challenged Beauty at every turn. Sometimes Beauty would ignore her, sometimes Beauty would turn to me for help, and other times Beauty would lay into her FIERCELY.

Then one day, after a particularly nasty fight that I realized was "set up" by Beauty (she went to Lisa's favorite spot on purpose), I knew I had to do something. Then I remembered the fight earlier between Jessie and Rusty, where Beauty had jumped in between them. By now I had learned alot more about obedience, and paying attention to signals. I realized Beauty was telling the other two that there was a time to fight, and NOT a time to fight, and in the house was NOT a time, in her opinion.

SO, I decided I would make the rule that there was NEVER a time to fight, and it would be my job to set that rule, and enforce it.

So enforce it I did. If either of them so much as LOOKED at the other cross eyed, they BOTH got shoved into opposite sides of the room, growled at by me, teeth bared, by me, and glared at.

It took about 2 weeks,,, all fighting ceased. Every now and then we have another little spat,,, but they are rare, and usually about 4 years apart! Not bad eh? :)

So if your dogs are fighting, and you think only ONE is the aggressor, usually you are wrong.  All dogs in cases like this should only be allowed together during supervision, when the owner can step in and STOP all signs of aggression immediately. 

What happens if you do NOT stop the fighting?  Then you end up with dogs who can't stand to look at one another, or you end up with one of them getting hurt.  Which would you rather have?

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PUPPY CRAZIES

Often People complain to me that their dog insists on going out of control, usually in the evening, flying through the house at warp speed, nipping and biting along the way.  Some have even told me they "body slammed" their dog in order to get them to stop... because no other method worked.  First, let me explain what this is.  I call it "Puppy Crazies".  Others call it "Butt Tucking", or by many other names.  I remember as a small child alot of cartoons showed puppies "chasing their tail".  It was considered cute, and fun to watch.  It helped the pup burn off excess energy.  That's what Puppy crazies are... just a dog, burning off excess energy.  Your dog, as a pup, probably has more energy to SPARE than you have in your entire body for the day.  The result is a pup who has extra energy and nothing to do with it!  So they run.  And they run, and they "fly" through the house as fast as their legs can carry them.   Younger dogs, who are not so coordinated, will knock over furniture or items ON furniture, while older dogs learn to avoid such things.  Bath luxury mountain home with large outdoor hot tub truly has it y the warmth of the.

So here is what you do:  You encourage it!  but in a controlled environment.  If you have a basement, and the pup begins to do the crazies, chase, him, then run down the steps with him following. Pretend you are going to continue the chase, and he will run in circles.  If you have a yard, and weather is appropriate, just open the door, and encourage him to go outside, then encourage with the "chase stomp".  The Chase stomp is when you act like you are about to tear after him, but really don't go anywhere.  Just like playing with children. 

We used to have a house where our yard was small, but the backdoor was a glass door, opening into the living room/great room.  Our one lab would crazy thru the yard, into the house, up into the dining area, back into the living area, back outside, and then start all over again.  Our oldest lab would encourage it with the chase stomp, as we sat back and laughed.  We always made sure nothing breakable was in the area.

Puppy Crazies can be fun!!  Just go with it, remember what it's like to be a child again, and play with your dog!  And before you know it, you AND your dog will be completely worn out, and feel the best of friends!!

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The Runaway Puppy - It's MINE!

This tip is courtesy of Cynwell@aol.com Thanks Cyn!

I'd like to pass on a favorite training tip of mine, too!

Never chase your puppy! Chasing your pup will undermine your efforts at teaching recall and retrieving. Even if you don't plan to hunt your dog, you really don't want to undermine retrieving!

In the last year, many people have written to this board (Meaning the AOL Lab board)   that their 5 or 6 mos old pups are stealing household objects and taking off with them.......they'll run away from their owner when the owner tries to recover the stolen object.

The best advise I've seen for avoiding this problem comes from one of Richard Wolters' books.........it's too bad the typical obedience books don't zero in on this, too.

When your puppy picks up a shoe or something he shouldn't have, encourage him to bring it to you. Cheerfully call your puppy to you and gently remove the shoe from his mouth.......tell him "Thank You"! Act like he did something really terrific! Next, grab one of his toys and throw it out for him to retrieve. (In the future, keep your shoes and other belongings put away out of the pup's reach! <g>)

The time to scold the pup is when he's considering picking up that shoe. Tell him "No!"......"Leave It!" (in growling tones--not shouting). When he looks toward you, Praise him ........ and then offer him an appropriate toy to chew on! Be sure to "catch him in the act of" chewing one of his own toys and praise him for that! In time, your pup will lose interest in your stuff. . . .after all, he's being praised and rewarded with play for chewing and carrying around his own toys!

This puppy didn't come to you with the knowlege of what's his and what's not! The easiest way to protect your belongings is to keep them put away........not an easy task when you have children! More than anything, this puppy wants your approval and praise! Possitive reinforcement goes a long way when teaching a puppy to be a "good citizen" in the family.

My puppy won't quit biting!

The biting will only stop when YOU make it stop. The key in this case is your pup is learning how hard to bite, and who is dominant.

Biting, even when playing, is socially unacceptable. You must teach Shelby that you do not WISH to bite. There are many different methods.

One is simply shouting at the top of your lungs OUCH when she does, even if it does NOT hurt. She doesnt' mean to hurt you, so will at least ease up. Alot of this one depends on the age of the pup.  Young pups respond VERY quickly to this method.

One method is to grab their muzzle and firmly say "NO BITE". I find this one doesn't work as much as you think, because they don't like their muzzle grabbed.

One method is to grab them on either side of their face, under their ears (nice handle of skin/fur there ya know) and firmly "NO BITE".

And an unusual method I have used at times, especially during LOVE BITES (bites received during kissing) is to bite them back! Usually these love bites are on the ear, so I simply bite the tip of their ear until they yelp. THen say "SEE, it HURTS". You don't have to slobber all over them or anything, just bear down on the tip with your teeth. Don't bite HARD, because it doesn't take much.

In all these cases (except biting back) when you give the verbal command, make it in a low, growling sound. NO BITE. Make it sound mean, and angry. (but do NOT be angry). This will make it easier for the dog to understand you mean business. Always look the dog directly in the eye for these corrections, and do NOT look away until the pup does.  First, your pup MAY be young enough to respond to this method:

consistency is the key! You MUST be consistent or the dog will CONTINUE to bite!

When will my dog come into heat?

The best answer to this question SHOULD be NEVER, unless your dog is a show dog, or capable of improving your breed.  Labs should be field tested, and receive their Championship in Show.  Other breeds should complete THEIR specific tests.  Dogs should be OFA and CERF certified, not just checked with the vet.  Their x-rays and tests should be sent to people who specialize in looking at these results, and are able to determine the rating for your dog.  Make sure you visit each breed club and find out what tests should be run for YOUR dog. 

Again, if your dog is not to be used in a planned breeding program, with written guaranteed health for the puppies, then it is my opinion that you should spay/neuter your dog immediately.  There are hundreds of reasons why dogs should be spayed/neutered, but the most important is overpopulation.  A good breeder is not PART of the problem, but is HELPING the problem.

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TeresaR
Copyright © TeresaR. All rights reserved.
Revised: December 26, 2002.